From: Marie Sheerin
Sent: 16 July 2010 14:32
To: Yvonne Knott
Subject: RE: Holiday in Egypt
I just wanted to let you know that my daughter Laura and myself had a marvellous holiday in Egypt, it was a fantastic experience. The hotel was lovely and all the staff were so friendly and helpful and made our holiday very memorable, they couldn't do enough for us
Our Rep with Traveline Egypt, Amr was a real gem and looked after us so well from the time we met him and his colleague Sabrino, at the airport - they looked after us so well and made our entry to Sharm El Sheikh and our transfer to the hotel so easy. Amr and some of his colleagues came out with us at night to show us around and to make sure we were safe and we felt so at ease having them with us while walking around the town at night. We would not have felt at ease if were went out on our own at night in Nama Bay and the Old Market, so we really appreciated the care they took of us.
Our trip to Cairo was absolutely wonderful too and our guide Mac (short for Macmoud) was such a pet and we had a terrific day because of him. We had him all to ourselves and we felt like royalty for the day. Compliments to Traveline with having such great staff! Mac was a lovely fella and had excellent english and a wonderful sense of humour, he made the day very memorable and Mohammad our driver was such a pet too. We are so glad that we went the extra mile on this trip and went to Cairo to visit the pyramids, sphynx and egyptian museum - what an experience - we would have regretted not going and the flight was only one hour compared with travelling for seven hours on a coach to Cairo and another seven on the return journey, which would have travellers going for 24 hours - you would need a holiday after that trip!
Thank you Yvonne for arranging our holiday to Sharm El Sheikh and Cairo, we will never forget it and would love to go back again and next time please God, visit the Valley of the Kings in Luxor.
Kind Regards,
Marie Sheerin
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 5:26 AM
Subject: thankyou
Dear Sirs
My husband and I have just returned from a visit to Egypt.
We would like to thank all your staff for the very professional, kind and friendly service we received the whole time we were in your beautiful country. We would like to say a particular thankyou to our Cairo guide Mansour and driver Aman – they were just magnificent and we formed quite a friendship with them. Would it be possible to keep in touch with them through your office ? Another special thanks goes to guide Ramy (Sharm El Sheikh) who was able to locate my lost camera through Egypt Air and was kind enough to arrange for its return. Well done Ramy ! And to Beeshur (excuse the spelling) in Mt Sinai - what an entertainer he was !
We hope to visit your beautiful country again and will most certainly use your services. Once again, thank you for everything. Kind regards.
Joan Church and Dennis Blom
Sent: 04 May 2010 14:28
Subject: BKGREF: 8986608
I can not praise highly enough kuoni and the staff at Cairo Egypt. My husband, daughter, grand daughter and myself were staying at the "Movenpick Resort Cairo Pyramids" at the time of the resent disruption to flights because of the volcanic ash. The Kuoni representative Ahmed El Sharif (not certain that I have his last name right) was excellent in his care and devotion to all us stranded holiday makers. He remained calm and polite even when one person lost his temper and began shouting because of the situation outwith his control. This young man worked very hard to keep everyone informed of what was happening and did his utmost to help everyone. I am certain that he worked many,many hours in excess of his normal duties as he always seemed to be at the hotel with his phone in hand making arrangements and getting updates and information for us all. I would also like to mention the "Traveline" reps who were also very helpful and one in particular who was with us when we went to the airport in the early hours of Wednesday 21st April for our flight to Amsterdam. I think this young mans name was Anwan, he was instrumental in defusing a very difficult situation brought about by KLM who behaved disgracefully. I will certainly travel with Kuoni again and will recommend you to my family and friends.
Yours sincerely
Caroline deVoy
From: DEREK CARVER
Sent: 21 April 2010 16:59
Subject: Our booking reference 8912425
We have just returned from a holiday I booked with you for 9 of us (my family) to celebrate my 80th birthday - little did we visualise the ending!
Whilst I have to say that your reps all along the route behaved with the total efficiency one always hopes for, the team had to deal with something beyond anybody's experience, and they coped superbly. Of course, they were as bereft of information as the rest of us but the moment Heathrow opened they contacted us at midnight last night and said they were doing everything possible to get us on the first London bound plane this morning. And in this they succeeded admirably.
We have nothing but praise for them and for the Kuoni organisation.
Yours sincerely
Derek Carver
From: Angela Southall
Sent: 26 April 2010 09:22
Subject: RE: Egypt
Hi Paul,
Thanks for your help in organising our holiday. We had a fantastic time despite the additional week! Glad to be home, but it will certainly be a holiday to remember.
The tours were excellent particularly in Cairo with Hanan.
Also, I just wanted to say what a fantastic job the reps did in the last week with all the chaos. In particular Ahmed who seemed to spend his whole time at the hotel with little sleep but still managed to keep everyone's spirits up.
Regards,
Angela Southall
Marketing Manager
Owners Direct Holiday Rentals Ltd
From: Szteinduchert, Leszek
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 2:30 PM
Subject: Thank you
Dear Tarek and Staff,
Firstly, we at VJV would like to thank you for all your help your assistance and understanding over the last week during the extraordinary disruption to our flying programme to/from Egypt. This has been a difficult time for us all, our passengers and of course all our trade partners. The commitment, hard work and sheer persistence that has been demonstrated by you during this time has been remarkable. We are very proud of the way you have all responded to this challenge and worked together to ensure the wellbeing of our customers and the reputation of our business.
We are all incredibly proud to be associated with you all.
Thanks again
Leszek Szteinduchert
Commercial Manager
VOYAGES JULES VERNE
From: Edmunds, Joanna
Sent: 25 April 2010 13:28
Subject: Thank you
Dear Magdy,
I just wanted to send you a personal thank you for being such a star, You are now famous in Dorking! We are beginning to get the situation under control elsewhere but the fact you and your team were so swift to react and to get people home has been a massive help and has allowed us to focus on other areas of the world, thank you for being so proactive and for all your care for our customers.
Unprecedented times call for an unprecedented response but you excelled yourselves. It makes me incredibly proud to work with Traveline.
Thank you to you and all your team for your hard work, commitment and sheer tenacity!
With very best wishes
Joanna Edmunds
Managing Director
Kuoni Travel Limited
From: Diethelm, Tamara
Sent: 21 April 2010 18:17
Subject: THANK YOU
Dear Hisham, Dear Magdy,
I do not actually know how I can possibly begin to say thank you to you and every member of your teams for their incredible support in this crisis.
You have been absolutely incredible at looking after our clients, negotiating with suppliers and re-booking our clients. THANK YOU so much.
We are of course having regular leadership team updates and have all agreed that no other agent has been as great as you!
Thank you so much gentlemen!
Best wishes,
Tamara Diethelm
Head of Commercial & Market Management
Kuoni UK
From: Angie Curtis
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 12:30 PM
Subject: Ahmed Nagui - Aswan
Dear Traveline,
I would like to compliment you on the fine service you provide to travellers in Aswan, particularly the work done by your representative, Ahmed Nagui. He has looked after us on two separate holidays there and both times he was excellent but on the most recent occasion (16th. February in the Movenpick)he was superb. Some of our luggage failed to arrive and Ahmed did everything he possibly could to a)retrieve it for us and b)to help us acquire the essentials which were in the lost luggage, such as prescription eye-drops.
He kept us informed throughout and his patience and good humour made us feel that we were valued and honoured guests. We unintentionally woke him up on his day off and still he was patient and still smiling when we saw him next.
And he still looked after his other guests while working on our problems.
The list is too long to include here of all the things he did for us but by the end of the two weeks we felt he was a real friend.
Please let him know how much we appreciate him and how much we enjoyed his calm and friendly help. And his sense of humour! He is a great asset to your company and you can be very proud of him.
Yours sincerely,
Angie and Tom Curtis
From: Emma Barden
Sent: 01 April 2010 11:21
Subject: BKGREF: 9128963
Hello Victoria,
I have returned from my holiday to the Stella Grand at Ain Soukhna on the Red Sea. I have completed the usual questionnaire in Egypt with Traveline.
I always like to give a my personal account to Kuoni, as you know so that it may influence your clients to visit Egypt.
This was my 19th Kuoni holiday and 7th visit with Kuoni to Egypt.
The usual efficient and courteous service was received on my arrival at Cairo International Airport. Although I did not see 'Mohamed' of Traveline on this occasion we did speak and text each other. I hope to see him next month on arrival in Cairo and before going to Aswan and the Movenpick.
I must mention two most courteous and charming young men who escorted me to the hotel and return: 'Sameh' & 'Mansour'. Perhaps Kuoni will send my compliments toTraveline through official channels? As you well know we never have a second chance to make a first impression. So the first impression is so important. Having now meet various members of your agent: 'Traveline' when in Egypt I am convinced that any Kuoni client will be looked after and treated like a V.I.P from the moment they arrive until their departure.
Now about the hotel:
Exceptional in all aspects of its performance.
The spacious and impressive lobby filled with plants and flower arrangements together with the polite and efficient staff makes a fine welcome. I was upgraded to a 'superior' room with a garden / sea view (3064). The quality of the furnishings was one of the best I have enjoyed in visiting many hotels in Egypt.
The restaurant / bar staff are exceptionally friendly in a genuine way, there is no expectancy of a 'tip' which can in some countries can make ones visit irritating. I always feel where good service is given I will personally tip appropriately. Not like in the USA where a 15-20% is expected even if the service is rubbish!
Two members of the bar staff in particular deserve mention: 'Sharif & 'Ayman' always anticipated my requirements with a smile and courteous service.
The quality of the food at all mealtimes was tasty and inventive. Buffets are sometimes regarded as 'boring'. This was not the case. The dining areas are immaculate. As soon as one finished a course the plate and utensils were removed immediately.The dining area is spotless. Ibrahim the restaurant manager was always checking to make sure his guests were enjoying their meals.
The pool areas / beach are immaculate. I have never seen such cleaning activity going on everywhere. I sat for a few hours in the bar and saw at least four staff cleaning non-stop.
Security is quite evident but not obtrusive both with the Tourist Police and private security.
To give you an example of the care the hotel have for their guests:
I noted that my suitcase have developed a serious 'crack' which I had not noticed when I arrived at the hotel. It must have happened during storage in the aircraft hold. If the crack went unchecked it may have split open during the flight back to the U.K. I spoke with a member of the Front Desk Staff: 'Mohamed Fathy' who immediately came with me to my room and inspected the case, he then summoned a member of his maintenance team. He then insisted I return to the lobby and relax whilst he remained in my room and personally supervised the 'operation'.
Having successfully applied 'surgery' to my case, he came and reported all was well. (My case survived the return journey and the split did not re-open).
I thought, lest I bore you, this is an example of the commitment to customer satisfaction from the Stella Grand.
May be it is possible to also send my official thanks to Mohamed Fathy who was most reluctant to receive any praise, only saying that it was part of his job to make sure the hotel guests were well looked after! I think you will agree he went beyond what it 'normally' expected of his role?
So Victoria, I trust you will pass on my comments to whom you feel would appreciate them. I consider myself a 'well traveled person', not only my holidays with kuoni but many other places I have been on a personal basis. I feel therefore 'qualified' to identify a premium property when I stay in one. I certainly will be making a return trip, maybe next year or sooner. Incidentally 'TripAdvisor.com' speak very highly of this property! I intend to add my own comments.
I can now look forward to my next visit to Aswan- Egypt ( 20 - 27 April 2010).
As you know I will be traveling alone, I will have just celebrated my birthday on the 15th April so I will regard this trip as a birthday 'special'.
I look forward to hearing from you sometime. Kind regards and sincere wishes,
Paul R.Thomas
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: Blom
Tracey,
Would you please pass on my sincere appreciation to all the Traveline staff and Management who assisted me to return home early from Luxor, due to my sister’s passing away.
It certainly made me aware of the need to have a reliable operator when these situations arise. I could not get into Luxor airport, without a ticket for the day of travel and therefore negotiate a flight to Cairo. The staff and assistant Manager were persistent in obtaining a flight even though they were constantly being told by all airlines there was no way travel we could fly out that day. On my arrival in Cairo, at 1.30am, the Traveline staff were there to assist me and they also followed up how we were going the next morning. I apologise for not contacting them on that day of departure.I did look for a staff member, but as I had to spent an hour at the Etihad office sorting out my ticket, I think we must have missed each other.
Prior to the emergency we thoroughly enjoyed the Egypt experience and cruise, the culture and history. All guides were very knowledgeable and passionate about their area and it’s history. The hotels could all be recommended. Only exception was the Iberotel Cairo airport hotel. This was recommended by the Traveline staff – no water from 2.00am – 5.00am which I guess is normally not a problem as most pax’s would not be checking in at that time. I am aware that we did not have any choices and that also airport hotels are never great options.
Thanks once again for making my travel arrangements , we do have some great memories I think we will just have to go back at a later date to complete the Luxor arrangements and more time in Cairo.
Regards
Joyce and Marinus Blom
From: Steel, Mark Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 2:44 PM
Subject: Feed back
Dear Sirs
We have recently returned from a Nile Cruise aboard the MS Darakum and I felt compelled to write and say what an excellent holiday we have had. Recently on returning from a holiday I always seem to have a complaint of some sort but I can honestly say that I could find no cause for complaint on this holiday.
The company you use to represent you in Egypt 'Traveline' gave a remarkable service we were most impressed by their attitude, smart appearance and general friendliness we had nothing to do for ourselves they took care of everything. The guide on the MS Darakum (George Basher) was very imformative (I only wish I could remember all he told us) he made the trip most enjoyable as he not only explained all about Ancient Egypt he also took the time to tell us all about present day Egypt he presented all the facts most clearly and was also amusing, everytime we had completed a trip the coach was there ready to take us back to the ship we had no waiting around for transport, food and cleanliness onboard was second to none and again the staff were great. We also spent three days in Cairo at the Sofitel El Gezirah which was also excellent. We booked a day with a guide from Traveline (Ahmed) he was also very imformative we visited the Pyramids and the Museum and he made sure that we packed everything into the day.
All in all an excellent holiday and I will certainly recommend Virgin holidays
Best regards Rita and Robert Rawson
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:18 PM
Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:18 PM
Subject: MISR, March 1st 2010
Dear Mr Hisham Imam ,
On behalf of myself, and my 22 friends, I would appriciate if you could convey my thanks to the crew of the MISR.
In 2008 my sister and myself did the Nile cruise on the MISR, booked through Noble Caledonia. We had such a lovely trip and the staff was just superb (Mohamed Jounis our guide, Rafik the boat manager etc) that we then decided to do the trip again but ask some friends along.
Planning started beginning of 2009 and we ended up with 22 friends and once again booked through Noble Caledonia and boarded the MISR on March 1st, 2010.
We all flew in from Cairo and were met by Bassem, our guide, and had a special transfer to the MISR.
On board it felt like coming home!
Rafik was there, Hanay the restaurant manager, Arpet the bar manager, the cook, I knew them all.
They made my life so wonderful I am having trouble adjusting at home!!
Please say a big big thank you to first of all Bassem who was just extraordinary. He went out of his way to make our stay and change our tours as we requested, added transfer, rebooked schedules, he really went far beyond his duty. And of top of all that he is a very very knowledgeable guide.
The staff on board also please convey my thanks. I miss the smoothies Arpet made for me and the chocolates the cook made and were in my cabin.
All in all everybody loved it.
Thank you so very much and Inshallah I will be back again and then have 40 friends with me!
Warm regards
Veronica Quarles van Ufford
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:59 PM
Szteinduchert, Leszek Monday, April 26, 2010 2:30 PM Thank youFrom: Edmunds, Joanna 25 April 2010 13:28 Thank you From: Diethelm, Tamara 21 April 2010 18:17 THANK YOU From: Emma Barden Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:18 PMSent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:59 PMWednesday, March 17, 2010 8:59 PM
Subject: MS Darakum Cruise March 08 - March 15 2010
Wow! This cruise was absolutely fabulous (booked via Kuoni). It was a wonderful experience especially for a lone traveller. The ship exceeded expectations – the staff were fabulous. My special thanks to the restaurant manager and the tour manager (Rania) who went the extra mile to make my holiday perfection – please let them know.
Many thanks
Sally Hardy
From: Foley, Ignacio [mailto:ignacio.foley@kirkerholidays.com]
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 12:20 PM
Subject: WALDEN feedback!
Foley, Ignacio [mailto:ignacio.foley@kirkerholidays.com] Monday, February 08, 2010 12:20 PM WALDEN feedback!
Wednesday, March 17, 2010 8:59 PM Foley, Ignacio [mailto:ignacio.foley@kirkerholidays.com] Monday, February 08, 2010 12:20 PM WALDEN feedback!
FYI our loyal clients were most impressed
Dear Ignacio
Just a quick note to thank you for organising such an excellent trip for us to Egypt. We had a really good time and all the arrangements worked well – we were impressed by Travel line and all the hotels were good. The Philae was special - only half full - and we are so pleased we were able to get to Abu Simbal. Many thanks for setting this up. Also v pleased we couldn’t get the original date – it is the Egyptian half-term and much busier than late Jan.
Best wishes
Janet
Kind regards.
Ignacio Foley
Senior Sales Consultant
From: sonia
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 11:45 PM
Subject: Thank You to staff
I just wanted to write to say thank you to your staff for making our tour of the Nile such an enjoyable and memorable experience. Our holiday was booked through Virgin Holidays.
Following a delayed flight from Cairo to Luxor on 08.01.10, it was comforting to have someone meet and greet us at Luxor airport at 4:00 a.m 09.01.10 (he had waited there since 11:00 p.m. the night before).and then made sure we were booked into the Sheraton Hotel.
We then spent a week on the M/S Darakum, which was one of the most enjoyable holidays I have ever experienced and I have to say that Ahmed Samir ( for Kuoni) is quite simply an excellent tour guide. With his vast amount of knowledge and sense of humour, he made our holiday an experience never to be forgotten.
Following our time on the ship we spent another day at the Sheraton before flying from Luxor to Cairo and then from Cairo to London. At all venues we were met and escorted through to check in, which made it all so easy and relaxing for us.
Once again, thanks to your professional staff for making our holiday such a fantastic one.
Sonia and Ady Farrow
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: Thank you for a wonderful Trip
Please forgive my delay in writing to you to tell you what a fabulous trip we all had. You may have heard from the other "Queen's" by now......
I was in the Tour Operating Business for 30 years in a Management capacity for a long time (until a few years ago) and have planned and escorted many trips along with marketing and selling to Travel Agents.
Therefore, as a professional, not just a traveler, I wanted to tell you how perfect everything was. Your Escorts, and Guides and Drivers were all very professional and accommodating and I am sure went way overboard for us to be sure we felt welcomed and comfortable. Additionally, the service they performed ie. checking us into the Hotels and airports was over the top. I have to say though, that the best part was the itinerary itself. It was a perfect combination of everything, planned very well.
Best regards, Melinda Sprague
Bye for now, Linda
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 8:20 PM
Subject: Cadogan holiday A006910 - Paul Durigg
Hi Kamel,
Now that we are back in Wales and fully recovered from our journey
home, I thought I would let you know how much we enjoyed our time in
Cairo and El Sokhna. We knew straight away that the service was going
to be good when we first met you and within no time we were on our way
to the Mena House. Throughout our stay in Egypt it was reassuring to
know that you were always on hand and there to provide that extra
service that lifts a holiday from enjoyable to truly memorable.
Thank you once again for the professionalism and courtesy you showed
us during our holiday, you are a credit to Traveline an we wish you
every success in your future endeavours.
Kindest regards,
Paul & Sarah Durigg
P.S. We wish you the best of good fortune for your wedding next year.
M/S Darakum
Sep 04, 2009, 7:34 AM
I have just got back from a niole cruise on the MS Darakum... FABULOUS!!! In every way, it was wonderful. Staff were attentive and helpful without being obvious, the food was superb and catered for every taste, the trips were well organised and very interesting and the Egyptologist was wonderful. the boat was fully air-conditioned and spotlessly clean. No complaints at all. Go for it... have a wonderful time.
Sharon.
West Mids
Sent: 04 October 2009 20:29
Back from Cairo this afternoon after a really wonderful visit.
Mr Traveline looked after us with great care.
When we arrived at midnight their representative was waiting, but poor thing a jumbo load of Hajj pilgrims has also arrived from Saudi with pots and pans and you can just imagine the Zoo!! He fought to get us through and then off to The Sheraton with ease.
Our day in Islamic Cairo was wonderful and I want to particularly bring to your attention the guide for the day. I have travelled far and wide and I can tell you he was excellent. Articulate, polite, charming, perfect English and very knowledgeable. He told me when he was advised he had to look after AWT clients he rushed to brush up on all his knowledge. I thought that was a super pat on the back for you. His name is Walid Ali El Nawasany.I know you are going to Egypt soon and certainly he would be very suitable for your other clients.
The ride back to the airport this morning went without a hitch.
Thank you for all you have contributed to a special visit.
regards,
Neil.
bumblebeeKent
kent
MS Darakum
Sep 02, 2009, 3:35 AM
Hi I have just returned from a Nile cruise on MS Darakum.The trip far exceeded our expectations.
The boat is very modern and spotless. The staff are very friendly and fun.Cabins large with great windows with views of the Nile.Only 29 people on board so like a private yacht!Met great people onboard and there was a great family atmosphere with guests and staff mixing together.Food was very good; good choice and would cook anything extra if asked.
Booked with Oli at Dialaflight and travel was with kuoni who were great.Anwar the guide was amazing. Only 11 people in tour group. Traveline did all pick ups etc and were very professional.A truly great trip. ps. also cakes were made for birthdays and staff did a dance to celebrate.Must add that all done very tastefully!
leicester
Re: MS Sunray
Jun 03, 2009, 4:26 PM
Just returned from a cruise on MS Sunray. we were extremely delighted, the staff just couldn't do enough. We were a party of four, all vegetarians but found the chef and catering staff very obliging and prepared different asian vegetarian meals on top of the choice we had from the buffet. Would highly recommend the ship.
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 13:21:59 +0000
From: janethardware@yahoo.co.uk
Subject: Message for Laurent Chauvin
To: egyptvjv@hotmail.co.uk
Dear Laurent Chauvin,
My husband and I were part of the group that you accompanied from Cairo to Alexandria on the 16th February. We enjoyed talking to you when you revealed yourself on arrival. I have your card.
The following morning, my husband was taken ill, and our guide, Waleed, called us an ambulance and forewarned the hospital of our arrival. After taking our group to their next stop, he returned to the hospital and helped me to negotiate the admission systems.
Later that afternoon, he returned to see David and to reassure me that my hotel room had been secured for a further night. He also helped to sort out a few more admin. problems.
On Thursday morning, when Waleed and the others set out to return to Cairo, two representatives of Travel Line appeared at the hospital with lovely flowers, a car to take us back to the hotel, and an arrangement for transport to catch up with our tour on Friday morning.
We were so impressed with VJV's response to this problem. We commend to you Waleed and Travel Line who did so much to help us under these worrying circumstances.
With many thanks from us both - Jan Hardware
andyrobertsEs...
Essex UK
ss Misr
Jan 28, 2009, 1:40 PM
Hi there,
We have just returned from a week's cruise down the Nile on the SS Misr. I'm going to start with the positive points.
The boat itself is a lovely vessel to be aboard for a week - it has all the facilities you would expect to find on a boat of this size which accommodates 46 people maximum. The staff are VERY attentive, especially the waiting staff in the dining room. For instance, on buffet sittings once you have filled your plate, the waiters insist on taking your plate from you and carrying it back to your table. A bit over the top, but they really do mean well, and people did love the top service.
Our guide for the tours, Mohamed, was absolutely faultless and as an Egyptologist was so knowledgeable about all the places we visited. He brought all the temples and tombs to life, and by the end of the week, we felt as though we'd learnt a lot about ancient history in the Nile Valley area. He will be there "imshallah" for many years to come.
We had a nice cabin (405) on the top deck, which was smallish, but very well furnished in a period style, with stylish fittings. The bath was small but the shower was excellent. Towels were replaced twice a day and bedlinen was replaced daily. There was a nice but narrow balcony outside with two small stools to sit on (with a gin and tonic and a ciggie in hand), and a nice Nile view. As has been said in previous reviews, you need to request a Nile view cabin at the time of booking, otherwise you end up with your cabin looking out on another boat which it will be moored against some of the time, thus making your balcony unusable.
Now the negatives.
On our first evening we looked at the bar tariff - if you want a gin and tonic it will cost you 74 Egyptian Pounds (60 for a gin and 14 for a tonic), which in English pounds at the moment is £10. Also a regular size bottle of Stella will set you back £4.25, and a bottle of Egyptian ordinary wine will cost you £30 approx. Champagne worked out into the £100s. A lot of our fellow guests who'd paid a lot of money for this cruise were flabbergasted at these extortionate prices, and the real shame is that most people who'd wisely bought duty free at Gatwick went back to their cabins after dinner to have a couple of drinks, instead of which if the prices had been reasonable, we'd all have been socialising in the beautiful bar/lounge area they have for you to enjoy. Obviously if you're not a drinker then it's not going to affect you, but I saw no comments to this effect before I went so think it might be useful to others to know this before they travel. Also there was no tea or coffee offered after dinner, and you have to pay for water on board, £1.75 a bottle. If you buy it off the ship it's 20p. The food we would describe as fairly good, but do not expect fine dining western style, for example their description of fillet beef could only be described as braised beef. Other dishes were good though, lots of chicken and fish dishes, a variation on a theme. We always found something nice to eat every mealtime. Nice omelettes cooked for breakfast while you wait.
Also to mention that the two single cabins on board are tiny to the point of being miniscule. You don't even get a wardrobe because there's not enough headroom for one - you get a kind of "tallboy" cupboard, and that meant that clothes got squashed up because it wasn't long or deep enough to adequately house jackets or trousers.
Overall a lovely relaxing week, I would advise anyone to go if you are into the history of Egypt, but remember there are lots of early (4-5am) starts for some of the trips to the temples.
Rough Guides Travel Talk
Posted December 15, 2008 12:12 PM
Dear Sirs,
We have just returned today from a two week "stay and cruise" trip to Egypt arranged through Timelinx.
All aspects of the trip, from the initial arrangements through all the internal transfers, to the guides and company representatives, were virtually flawless, and both companies can take credit and praise for helping make our holiday so memorable.
You may well be aware that there was a problem with our plane just prior to departure from Egypt and we had to stay over for an additional night while alternative arrangements were made. Even though we had already said "goodbye" to the Traveline representative, Waleed, and over three hours had gone by before the decision to disembark was made, we were very surprised to see Waleed return and take very positive steps to cater for "his" group.
I can only guess at the efforts needed to find accommodation for us at such short notice, and to find ourselves at the very luxurious Sonesta St. George was even more impressive. Even though we'd arrived quite late, about 23:30 I think, there was a fine meal laid on for us, and again lunch the following day.
Waleed worked very hard to keep us informed during what could have been a very stressful time, and is to be commended for his professional attitude and keen desire to see that his Traveline group is given the best treatment.
Yours Sincerely,
Sheila and Arthur Bufton
travelferm
bristol,engla...
30. Re: MS Darakum - Nile cruise
Sep 22, 2008, 3:58 PM
We have just come back from a fabulous holiday in Egypt, 1 week on the Darakum and a week at the Marriott in Hurghada.
The Darakum is lovely, we were on the 3rd deck and had a great view (superior rooms are on the higher decks) the cabins aren't massive but they are really nice and have a compact but quite contempory bathroom. The food is very good with plenty to choose from and plenty of it (the soups are really tasty) something for everyone, we would always look forward to our meals as the staff (waiters, chefs etc) are such good fun. Always a cake when it was someones birthday. Lots of fun on the Egyptian night. I'm not one for dressing up but we all joined in and had a really good night. We went with Kuoni, our Egyptian guide was Youseff and he was brilliant, he made our trips so much fun and was full of interesting info, we all spoke so highly of him. We had a full itinery but to be honest you do get a bit templed out. We flew down to Abu Simbel, this is a magnificent temple but the weather was so hot we just wanted to get in the shade, well worth the trip though. Afternoon tea is served around 4pm and was all in with the price. You have to be quick with the sun beds (those with shade) not enough shade really for when the weather is too hot to sit out but the small pool is great to cool off in. Do go to the night market in Aswan, it is quite safe and good fun, one man said "I don't know what you want but I've got it in my shop" just say no and smile if you don't want to buy anything. We took lots of 50ps to tip and left a good tip at the end of our cruise in the envelopes provided at reception. We settled our bill with our credit card, this was no problem but I will say that the drinks are on the expensive side so be prepared for this. We just took Egyptian pounds for everything else.
dragonslayerh..
northants
26. Re: MS Darakum - Nile cruise
Aug 26, 2008, 12:45 PM
We have just returned from probably the best holiday we have ever had. I would say that the boat is decorated in neo-egyptian style which involves a lot of glass, mirrors and stainless steel. A lot of the other boats are more classically decorated with more "Agatha Christie" styling - I would say that they all are beautiful, just different to each other.
The staff were friendly and helpful and just knew how to provide good service. The boat was impeccably keen with our rooms being serviced twice a day.
Food is great. They dont offer ice as a norm and the coke, beer etc is from cans and bottles (£3.20 for beer, £1.20 for coke)
The sights are breathtaking
Anyone who is travelling with Kuoni, Trade Winds or Virgin are looked after by TravelLine Reps who are incredible. If they say they will collect you at 5.05am then that is the time they will be there. They look after you in a way we are not used to - Ahmed met us around midnight at Cairo to get us on a connecting flight that left in less than one hour due to a delay at LHR, he had got us our visas in preparation and pushed our baggage whilst we ran behind him, bundling us into the right building. He was amazing.
Down points - none that are important. The street vendors are a pain, you have to just act like you can't see them and they go away eventually. Tipping is a nuisance - but you just do it and get used to it.
It is HOT in August but there are no queues!! By 9am it is too hot to be outdoors in comfort.
There are a lot of early starts but this is ok because you are back to the boat early and can sleep if you want and at least you avoid the heat of the day.
Oh and be warned - the salt is in the pepper pot and vice versa on the tables in the restaurant on board!
I took half Egyptian pounds and half dollars - I didnt use the dollars at all.
And if you know someone that has already done a Nile Cruise and has a galebeya they can lend you - you could borrow it for the galebeya night and save yourself a bit of cash!
Oh and someone asked about the laundry service on board. I had a pair of shorts washed and ironed - returned same day and cost the princely sum of 35p!!
GRIFFYGB
Wirral
MS Darakum - Nile cruise
Aug 02, 2008, 3:52 PM
We have just come back from 7 days on the Darakum and here are my thoughts.
I thought the boat, service and guide in general were excellent. I was not aware of any "teething problems" and whilst the decor may not be to everyone's taste, we sure some much worse examples on the Nile!
Now some specifics. We did not discover what a superior room entailed. I would guess it typically means "on a higher deck", but how busy the boat is and other logistics, seems to be just as important for cabin allocation. We were on deck 2-and had no complaints, though I think deck 1 might be a little too low. Most rooms are on decks 2 and 3 with a few on 1 and 4. It is worth knowing that there are twin and double cabins.
As for drinks, bear in mind that this is a Muslim country and therefore are taxed to hell. Local beer is around £2.50 a bottle (which is OK) but wine is a crippling £15 a bottle. That said there is little else to spend your money on the boat. To clarify no cash changes hand until the end (except in the shop).
Also be aware that not all the people on the boat are likely to be from the same country and some may be half way through their cruise when you start (ie they are going Aswan to Aswan rather than Luxor to Luxor).
rakh1
Near London
MS Darakum - Nile cruise
Jul 17, 2008, 9:05 AM
Hi all,
Just come back from a week on the Darakum. The ship was not full so cannot comment on how crowded it may be when fully loaded. However, it was a FANTASTIC holiday. The ship is well decorated, the food is first class and ALL the staff friendly. Drinks are reasonably priced - our Luxor hotel was more expensive.
I would avoid rooms 210 and 211 as they have the ladders covering the lower 50cm of their windows (we moved here for one day after our bathroom started to leek).
Of all the boats we saw along the Nile the Darakum was certainly one of the best - if not THE best. Our independant guide agreed it was the best he had seen.
Would go again in a heartbeat! We are very fussy but we loved it.
Leselee
Witham, Essex
MS Darakum - Nile cruise
May 19, 2008, 2:12 PM
We have recently returned from a fantastic week on the brand new Nile cruiser MS Darakum maiden voyage.
The boat is very modern, contemporary egyptian in design. Lots of glass, chrome and mirrors. Exceptionally clean. The staff were brilliant and did everything to give us a pleasant cruise.
Rooms are of a reasonable size, with a lovely bathroom and they are cleaned and towels changed twice a day.
The food was excellent with a buffet breakfast and lunch and set dinner, usually 3 or 4 course, and the deserts were to die for.
There is a small indoor gym with treadmill weights and a bike, overseen by Amir who gave a very relaxing massage.
Our Egyptologist was very knowledgable and we visited several fantastic temples as well as tombs in the Valleys of the Kings and Queens.
The culture of Egypt is one of tipping, drivers, guides etc, but it is very difficult to get small denominations of Egyptian pounds so take a supply of 50p and £1 coins as most people will accept these.
S/S Misr
campseat
Arran
Apr 15, 2008, 10:31 AM
We cruised on the nile on the ss Misr in the last week in March 2008. There is a lot of space on the boat, inside and out. The pool is only really a plunge pool. There is only two rooms with outside seating (front panoramic suites), the balconies do not have the space for a chair but then most of the other boats do not have any balconies. The boat and the crew are excellent. Nothing is too much trouble.Extremely clean, great food and a incredibly attentive crew. This boat is far superior to the Hamees, the other Voyage Jules Verne boat and is certainly worth the upgrade, even walking through (which you do when docked).
S/S Misr
DJBCambridge...
Cambridge...
Apr 10, 2008, 5:30 AM
Just got back from a cruise on the SS Misr. Absolutely excellent in every respect; there were just 40 passengers. Outnumbered by incredibly efficient and pleasant crew. It may be a more expensive vessel to travel on but it has got to be the best in the business. The boat is bookable through Voyages Jules Verne only.
A tip; if you want the very best views from the Misr, specify a cabin on the starboard side when you book-you will be facing out into the river when moored. Port side is acceptable as you don't spend much time in your cabin but you will be moored up against other and larger boats on occasions, and you could end up feeling a bit like a troglodyte.
Also, if you want a double bed, specify this when you book, as about half the cabins have twin beds.
mollyKentUk
kent uk
s/s Misr
Mar 28, 2008, 9:49 AM
I know its a bit late but we have just returned from our trip down the Nile on SS Misr booked through VJV. Wow! what a fantastic steam ship. It was truly first class and we were thoroughly overwhelmed by the ship, the crew, the food, the guides and the whole itinerary. There were over 60 staff for 45 guests and we were royally treated, nothing was too much trouble. If you are looking to 'do' the Nile in style SS Misr is the only way to go. Absolutely fabulous!
Published on www.birdwatch.co.uk
Birder on the Nile
Against a backdrop of antiquities, the desert, the Red Sea & Africa’s greatest river, Egypt is one of the wonders of the birding world.
Dominic Mitcell reports.
Amid the noise and bustle of early morning in one of the world’s largest cities, I awoke to watch the sun rise over its mighty river. Against a backdrop of minarets and the Cairo skyline, with the call to prayer as the soundtrack, parties of Cattle Egrets made their way back and forth across surging water that would have started its long journey as a cloudburst far to the south in tropical Africa.
From the ground or from the air, the Nile is an impressive sight to behold. The first time I saw the river, many years previously, it was from more than 30,000 ft up, on a flight to Luxor. Having crossed high over an azure Mediterranean Sea and seemingly endless miles of golden dunes and desert, we had eventually descended towards the long, thin ribbon of blue, edged either side with verdant green, that is the Nile Valley. From the air it’s easy to appreciate the importance of this life giving river in a country which is more than 90 per cent desert.
On this latest trip, though, our arrival after dark the previous evening had offered a different take on Egypt’s landmarks, with the looming shapes of the Giza pyramids easily discernible on the edge of Cairo’s illuminated nightscape.
Nile high
From the delta to Upper Egypt, the importance of the Nile to the country’s birds cannot be underestimated. In the north, where our own journey started, the countless channels, ditches and marshes that the river feeds have created an extensive mosaic of wetland and farmland rich in exciting species. In the vast delta region you need to know where to look, but with somewhere approaching 30 trips to the country already under his belt, this was not an issue for Andrew Grieve, leader of the forthcoming Birdwatch reader holiday and my traveling companion in the country.
Delta birding was particularly memorable at Abassa, where the fish ponds and marshes were teeming with extraordinary numbers of birds. Cattle Egrets were omnipresent, sometimes in their thousands, while one particularly productive marsh produced dozens each of Squacco and Night Herons and a trio of kingfisher species – a rare hat-trick in the Western Palearctic. The impressive White-breasted Kingfisher, an Asian speciality here at its westerly limit, was both the most numerous and the most noisy, but hovering black-and-white Pieds were a frequent sight too; the so-called ‘Common’ Kingfisher was the rarest.
In such habitats waders are also abundant, with Spur-winged Lapwing, Wood and Marsh Sandpipers, Ruff and Little Stint the most numerous. Careful scanning of the rank vegetation produced small numbers of Common Snipe, but it took a while longer to find one of the country’s most wanted waders, Greater Painted-snipe. Eventually we located a single bird, although as I discovered the hard way on this trip they are much easier to flush than to watch on the ground!
While waterbirds dominated, there were other distractions. Raptors find no shortage of prey here, and as well as the ubiquitous Yellow-billed Kites (now widely split from Black Kite) and Marsh Harriers, we enjoyed views of Black-winged Kite, Montagu’s Harrier, Steppe Buzzard and a brief Barbary Falcon. Out in the damp fields the commonest passerine was often Red-throated Pipit, flocks of which constantly picked their way along furrows and through rank grass, and an interesting assortment of wagtails included several of the local Eygptian form of Yellow, pygmaea. Stands of reed held Clamorous Reed Warblers and the occasional Bluethroat, while both Streaked Weaver and Red Avadavat are also possible in the delta. We weren’t in luck with the former here, but succeeded with good views of the latter species at the productive oasis of Fayoum, to the southwest of Cairo.
Mention should also be made of two other specialities for which Egypt is famous. The delta region is home to the Western Palearctic’s only Senegal Coucals, a skulking species best searched for in spring when it is more vocal and easier to locate. Hopes were not high for our October visit, so it was with great delight that we enjoyed views in the open of this large but unobtrusive bird at Gebel Asfar. We also managed to find the equally sought-after Senegal Thick-knee, a species I hadn’t seen on my previous trip to the country, though the handful we saw in the north would soon be eclipsed by our experiences in Upper Egypt.
Great lake
It doesn’t take too long to fly from Cairo along the Nile to Abu Simbel, on the shores of Lake Nasser in the extreme south of the country. The position of the lake not far from the border with Sudan explains its long-standing attraction to birders as well as Egyptologists, for whom Upper Egypt holds treasures in abundance. Several Afrotropical species regularly occur here but nowhere else in the Western Palearctic, although seeing them all in one trip is a tall order.
Having checked into our hotel and scoured the grounds for migrants, which included several handsome Masked Shrikes as well as the resident White-crowned Wheatears, we headed for the lake shore on the edge of the town to begin the search. It wasn’t long before the first speciality, African Pied Wagtail, gave itself up, and several of these handsome black-and-white birds showed very well as they flitted around the water’s edge.
More frustrating were the views out across the water, with a stork on a distant island arousing strong suspicion that it was a Yellow-billed. Unfortunately, in the high temperatures and heat haze, it was just not possible to resolve enough detail on the bird, and we had to resign ourselves to only a ‘probable’ for the trip list. Compensation quickly came in the form of another African speciality, however, when careful scrutiny of the wader flocks on the shore revealed no fewer than 10 Kittlitz’s Plovers.
Eventually, with the sun beginning to drop in the late afternoon sky and the temperatures cooling, we decided to try a nearby marsh for Greater Painted-snipe. Pre-roost gatherings of more than 10 each of African Pied Wagtail and Senegal Thick-knee seemed like good omens, as did a Spotted Crake stalking through the edge of the reeds, but the light was rapidly fading. Further searching failed to come up with anything until there was a sudden shout from Andrew, standing on higher ground some yards behind me. “Egyptian Nightjar!” I spun around just as a pallid, falcon-like shape shot past, chasing insects along the edge of the marsh into the twilight. It was a brief but euphoric encounter with a lifer I had not really expected to see on the trip.
Our birding appetites sated, that evening we relaxed by enjoying what most visitors come to Abu Simbel to see: the temples of Ramses II and Nefertari. Moved from their original location when the Aswan Dam was built and Lake Nasser flooded, these imposing monuments of ancient Egypt draw tourists in large numbers from around the world. Floodlit after dark, they are also the backdrop for a spectacular ‘sound and light’ show enjoyed by hundreds of visitors each evening.
We duly took our seats among the English contingent, put on our headphones and sat back to enjoy the audio commentary as images of the pharaohs were projected across the temples and rock face in front of us. As the audience listened and watched, the occasion was dramatically interrupted when, for the second time in several hours, Andrew exclaimed “Egyptian Nightjar!” at the top of his voice. As startled tourists looked in our direction, I briefly glimpsed the bird’s ghostly silhouette as it hawked moths in the powerful beams of the floodlights.
Beyond the valley
After Abu Simbel, our route took us back down the Nile to Aswan, where from our base at the magnificent Old Cataract Hotel – where Agatha Christie is said to have written Death on the Nile – we took a superb trip in a small boat exploring the reed fringed backwaters of the river. Here, Striated Heron, Greater Painted-snipe, Little Bittern, Purple Swamp-hen and numerous other waterbirds gave exceptionally close views, unfazed by our presence on the water.
We parted company with the great river at Luxor, in the shadow of the Valley of the Kings, and after birding the hotspot of Crocodile Island struck out across the desert towards the Red Sea coast – a long but essential drive if some of the country’s most exciting species are to feature in your plans. Few western visitors travel down the Red Sea coast as far as Wadi Gamel, but the birding rewards are well worth the journey. We found sought after species like Greater Crested Tern, White-eyed and Sooty Gulls and Crab-plover, all high on birding wants lists, and autumn is also a good time for the hard to-find Sooty Falcon – another lifer I was lucky to see several times in the area. This dashing raptor and Lanner Falcon both appeared occasionally around our hotel at Wadi Gamel, no doubt hunting the abundant migrants which take cover in the gardens of this otherwise barren landscape. Every stroll around the grounds brought interesting birds: Red-throated Pipits, Common Redstarts and Willow Warblers were among the more numerous migrants, but others included Short-toed Lark, Sardinian Warbler and Red-breasted Flycatcher. On two occasions we watched a Corncrake feeding in the flower beds at close range, while on another it was an exhausted Namaqua Dove that gave confiding views.
From Wadi Gamel, it is possible to reach the edge of the Halaib triangle – the disputed territory in the extreme south-east of the country currently under Egyptian control (see Birdwatch 122: 25-28) – and find Lappet-faced Vulture at just about its only likely location in the Western Palearctic. A number of these impressive scavengers were on the wing when we arrived at the border town of Shelatein, where camel carcasses provide ready meals for this species and Egyptian Vulture, as well as that ubiquitous corvid of the desert, Brown-necked Raven. Shelatein’s other speciality is African Collared Dove, yet another species at the edge of its range here.
It was barely more than a week since we had arrived in the country, but this camel-stop in the desert felt a world away from Cairo. Such contrasts are part of the appeal of Egypt as a destination – dramatic and different landscapes, from the lush greenery of the delta and the blue waters of the Nile itself to the barren emptiness of the vast deserts and imposing mountains. Add the antiquities and the avian attractions, as well as the hospitable people and hot climate, and it is a winning formula for a memorable holiday.
Acknowledgements
Birdwatch travelled to Egypt courtesy of Kuoni Travel. Special thanks to Andrew Grieve, Pierre Tartari and the staff of Traveline.
Egypt, Nile River Cruise, 19 - 26 Mar 07, Mark Easterbrook
References:
1. Collins Guide to the Birds of Britain & Europe with N. Africa & The Middle East.
3. Trip Reports posted on the Web.
This report conforms to the following format:-
1. A brief introduction.
2. A table of common species seen along the Nile.
3. A day-by-day account of the sites visited with birding highlights.
4. A selective species trip list.
5. Summary.
Introduction
This was a family holiday selected by my wife, travelling with Voyages Jules Verne on one of the more “up-market” vessels (The SS MISR – King Farouq’s refurbished steamer), currently sailing on the Nile River.
Having previously travelled widely in the Middle East, there was only really one target bird; the Nile Valley Sunbird, with an outside chance of Kittlitz’s Plover.
The River cruise produced some good birds in a relaxed atmosphere, unlike the usual rushing around that I achieve whilst abroad.
Common Species
The following table contains a list of common species that can be easily seen in good numbers from Luxor, South to Aswan along the Nile River.
Scientific Name Common Name
Phalacrocorax carbo Great Cormorant
Ardeola ralloides Squacco Heron
Bubulcus ibis Cattle Egret
Egretta garzetta Little Egret
Ardea cinerea Grey Heron
Ardea purpurea Purple Heron
Circus aeruginosus Eurasian Marsh Harrier
Falco tinnunculus Common Kestrel
Gallinula chloropus Moorhen
Porphyrio porphyrio madagascariensis Purple Gallinule
Fulica atra Coot
Himantopus himantopus Black-winged Stilt
Vanellus spinosus Spur-winged Plover
Larus ridibundus Black-headed Gull
Streptopelia senegalensis Laughing Dove
Ceryle rudis Pied Kingfisher
Upupa epops Hoopoe
Hirundo rustica savignii Egyptian Barn Swallow
Motacilla alba White Wagtail
Corvus (carone) cornix Hooded Crow
Passer domesticus House Sparrow
Day by Day Itineraries with highlights
19 Mar 07
We flew from Gatwick at 0945, although this was delayed by an hour, which appears to be the normal state of affairs. The flight can hardly be recommended but achieved the desired aim after many queues for a number of reasons. We arrived on board our vessel the MS MISR at about 1930 local time (2 hours in front of UK time), settled in and enjoyed dinner on board.
Day 1 – 20 Mar 07
The boat had sailed from Luxor to Esna barrage overnight and in the morning light continued to Edfu. Two Garganeys, several Whiskered Terns and five Purple Gallinules were noted. Further down the Nile, the only Slender-billed Gulls, five Spoonbill and several Glossy Ibis made an appearance.
At Edfu – Temple of Horus, two Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and two Brown-necked Ravens were noted amongst the impressive buildings.
We re-boarded the boat after some hectic haggling (Life of Brian style), with some zealous vendors and journeyed to Kom Ombo. Whilst on route along the river the only Ruff of the trip, a Night Heron, another Spoonbill and several more Gallinule were noted. The only two Egyptian Geese were also noted on this leg of the journey.
Day 2 – 21 Mar 07
Today saw an early morning visit to Kom Ombo. From the boat a small long tailed bird was seen it was surely a Nile Valley Sunbird, although better views were required. We were not disappointed and the gardens under the Temple revealed two pairs of these superb little birds, the males in full breeding regalia. With migration well under way, several Lesser Whitethroats flitted about whilst the local Graceful Prinias and Common Bulbuls were in good voice. A familiar Reed Warbler like song from a bush was soon identified as an Eastern Olivaceous Warbler with its typical tail pumping action.
The boat then sailed from Kom Ombo to Aswan with the target bird safely secured on day two, which was a relief. The now familiar riverside birds continued to show and were complemented by several flocks of wildfowl, one of which contained three Ferruginous Ducks.
Day 3 – 22 Mar 07
We awoke in Aswan and set out to visit the Temple of Philae. A White-crowned Black Wheatear was seen by the jetty and a cracking male Masked Shrike also showed well. A Little Green Heron was seen on a rocky outcrop and several Gull-billed Terns circled the boat. On the Island, at least another four Nile Valley Sunbirds entertained us, an Osprey put in a brief appearance as did five Red-rumped Swallows and about sixty White Pelicans roosted on a nearby beach. We viewed a thermal full of Black Kites from the temple some of which were of the Yellow-billed sub-species.
Later in the afternoon we took a Felucca ride to Kitchener Island which produced another two male Nile Valley Sunbirds, a male Bluethroat (red spot), ten Ferruginous Duck and the usual common migrants.
Day 4 – 23 Mar 07
A 0315 wake-up call and an early departure saw us heading for Abu Simbel. Our arrival was greeted with a White-crowned Wheatear, another Hoopoe was seen as was a Graceful Prinia but the only new bird was a very pale grey coloured Crested Lark.
After lunch, we set sail north for our return to Luxor. Between Aswan and Kom Ombo the only Senegal Thick Knees were noted, along with two more Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and a White Pelican. Numerous Pied Kingfishers and the Egyptian sub-species of Barn Swallow continued to circle the vessel as we sat in the sun and enjoyed a beer or two.
From Kom Ombo to Edfu, a Clamourous Reed Warbler was heard and the only Ringed Plover of the trip was seen.
Day 5 – 24 Mar 07
The usual and common birds were seen on this leg of the journey between Esna and Luxor with no new birds for the trip being added.
Day 6 – 25 Mar 07
The group briefly stopped at the Colossi of Memnon but not before adding two Black-shouldered Kites on route. These striking birds appear to be present in small numbers around the cultivated fields of Luxor. At the statues three displaying Fan-tailed Warblers were seen, another Masked Shrike and two Stonechat.
The Temple of Hatshepsut was next and we added Trumpeter Finch and two Brown-necked Ravens here whilst Pale Crag Martins continued to be present at all Temple sites and several authentic Rock Doves were seen.
Later in the Valley of the Kings, at least fifteen Trumpeter Finches came to a bowl of water and some seed which allowed some close photos to be taken (by my wife) of this at times difficult bird to connect with. Whilst departing the site a Little Green Bee-eater perched on a rock.
An short afternoon walk by the Traveline moorings produced good views of a Clamourous Reed Warbler and another Night Heron.
Of interest during an evening visit to Luxor Temple was a noisy roost of Godfrey’s Tomb Bat.
Day 7 – 26 Mar 07
On route to the Temple of Karnak another Black-shouldered Kite sat on telegraph wires and a Hoopoe fed along the roadside.
The journey to the airport produced several of the ubiquitous Pied Kingfishers, several Pallid Swifts overhead and one more Black-shouldered Kite, a species that appears to be quite common around the cultivated farmland of Luxor.
Selective Species List
Scientific Name Common Name Remarks
Tachybaptus ruficollis Little Grebe 2 seen on the southerly journey between Esna and Edfu
Pelecanus onocrotalus Great White Pelican A flock of circa 60 seen roosting from Philae Temple and later migrating North with 1’s along the river
Ixobrychus minutus Little Bittern 1 along the river between Kom Ombo and Aswan
Nycticorax nycticorax Black-crowned Night Heron Singletons seen along the river but not numerous
Butorides striatus Little Green Heron 3 birds seen 2 on the river between Kom Ombo and Aswan, 1 whilst approaching Philae Temple
Egretta alba Great White Egret Only 2 birds seen between Kom Ombo and Aswan on the 21st
Plegadis falcinellus Glossy Ibis 1s & 2s along the river with a large flock of c60 between Kom Ombo and Aswan
Platalea leucorodia Eurasian Spoonbill 5 birds seen on a river island between Esna and Edfu and 1 seen between Edfu and Kom Ombo
Alopochen aegyptiacus Egyptian Goose 2 were seen on a river island between Edfu and Kom Ombo
Anas penelope Eurasian Wigeon Small groups seen along the river
Anas crecca Eurasian Teal 8 birds seen in 2 groups
Anas acuta Northern Pintail 2 drakes at Aswan with Northern Shoveller and 1 with the same species between Edfu and Kom Ombo
Anas querquedula Garganey 3 birds seen, 2 drakes and 1 duck along the river with Northern Shoveller
Anas clypeata Northern Shoveller Large flocks seen all along the river
Aythya nyroca Ferruginous Duck 3 between Esna and Edfu. 10 from Kitchener Island
Aythya fuligula Tufted Duck Small parties (mostly drakes) along the river between Edfu and Kom Ombo
Elanus caeruleus Black-shouldered Kite 2 near the Colossi of Memnon, 1 over the fields near Luxor and 1 on the way to the airport on the final day
Milvus migrans Black Kite Numerous over Philae Temple with singletons seen elsewhere
Milvus migrans parasitus African "Yellow-billed" Kite Birds contained within the thermal at Philae were of this Ssp
Pandion haliaetus Osprey 1 at Philae Temple
Burhinus senegalensis Senegal Thick-knee 11 seen on the return journey between Aswan and Kom Ombo on a “beach”
Charadrius hiaticula Ringed Plover 1 seen during the return journey up-river between Aswan and Kom Ombo
Philomachus pugnax Ruff A group of 8 were seen on an river island between Edfu and Kom Ombo
Gallinago gallinago Common Snipe 1 at Edfu – flushed by a Marsh Harrier and one along the river between Aswan and Kom Ombo
Limosa limosa Black-tailed Godwit 2 were seen feeding between Esna and Edfu
Tringa totanus Common Redshank 1 seen between Aswan and Kom Ombo
Tringa stagnatilis Marsh Sandpiper 1 seen between Aswan and Kom Ombo
Actitis hypoleucos Common Sandpiper Singletons seen throughout the trip along the river
Larus genei Slender-billed Gull A group of 5 seen between Esna and Edfu
Gelochelidon nilotica Gull-billed Tern Common around Philae Temple with 1s along the river
Chlidonias hybridus Whiskered Tern Good numbers seen all along the river
Chlidonias leucopterus White-winged Black Tern Small numbers mixed with the above and a group of 20 heading North between Esna and Edfu on the 20th
Columba livia Rock Dove Authentic birds seen at the Temple of Hatshepsut
Streptopelia turtur Turtle Dove 1 bird seen at Philae Temple
Apus apus Common Swift Good numbers migrating in the second half of the week
Apus pallidus Pallid Swift Probably mixed with the previous species but 5 positively identified on the return to the airport
Merops orientalis Little Green Bee-eater 1s & 2s seen at Kom Ombo, Abu Simbel and Valley of the Kings
Merops persicus Blue-cheeked Bee-eater A flock of 18 seen between Esna and Kom Ombo, with a pair at Edfu Temple and several around Luxor
Galerida cristata Crested Lark 2 seen. 1 at Abu Simbel and 1 at the Colossi of Memnon
Ptyonoprone fuligula Pale Rock Martin Seen regularly in small numbers at all Temples
Hirundo daurica Red-rumped Swallow A group of 5 seen over Philae Temple
Motacilla flava Yellow Wagtail Singletons seen along the river
Mortacilla (flava) feldegg Black-headed wagtail 1 seen between Edfu and Kom Ombo
Pycnonotus barbatus Common Bulbul Fairly common - 1s & 2s seen in suitable habitat
Luscinia svecica Bluethroat 1 male seen on Kitchener Island
Saxicola torquata Stonechat A male and female at the Colossi of Memnon
Oenanthe leucopyga White-crowned Black Wheatear 2 at Philae Temple, 2 at Abu Simbel and one at the boat jetty to Philae Temple
Cisticola juncidis Zitting Cisticola Several seen in grasslands bordering the River
Prinia gracilis Graceful Prinia 1s & 2s heard and seen in reeds along the river
Acrocephalus stentoreus Clamourous Reed Warbler Heard along the river and 1 seen in reeds near Luxor
Hippolais pallida Olivaceous Warbler Migrants seen and heard in suitable habitat
Sylvia curruca Lesser Whitethroat Good numbers seen at Philae Temple, Kom Ombo Temple and singletons seen throughout in suitable habitat
Anthrepetes metallicus Nile Valley Sunbird At least 8 seen in pairs, including stunning males in suitable habitat at Kom Ombo Temple, Kitchener Island and Philae Temple (nest seen)
Lanius nubicus Masked Shrike 3 at Philae Temple and 1 at the Colossi of Memnon
Corvus ruficollis Brown-necked Raven 2 at Edfu Temple of Horus and 2 at the Temple of Hatshepsut
Bucanetes githagineus Trumpeter Finch 4 at the Temple of Hatshepsut and common in the Valley of the Kings (photographed coming to water)
Summary
The trip produced the target bird! A Cruise along the River Nile is an ideal relaxed way to bird watch, whilst keeping the family happy and enjoying the Egyptian historical sites. The excursion to Abu Simbel is a little tiring and a little over-priced, with not many birds on offer (unless you are lucky enough to encounter something like an African Skimmer on Lake Nasser, however, to go that far and not visit the site would be a shame.
I would recommend a cruise for the above reasons but if you are looking for a large list this is not the trip for you. Take care in selecting a vessel to travel on, as many look tired and not in particularly good order.
M/S Hamees
Mark77339 1 contribution
Houston, Texas
Nov 29, 2007
• The Nile cruise ship was one of the best we saw (M/S Hamees).
The guides were fantastic. Contrary to some comments that I have read, we found them to be 100% trustworthy and honest. Trust them. They know the ropes and will take care of you.
I just wanted to write to say thank you to your staff for making our tour of the Nile such an enjoyable and memorable experience. Our holiday was booked through Virgin Holidays. Following a delayed flight from Cairo to Luxor on 08.01.10, it was comforting to have someone meet and greet us at Luxor airport at 4:00 a.m 09.01.10 (he had waited there since 11:00 p.m. the night before).and then made sure we were booked into the Sheraton Hotel. We then spent a week on the M/S Darakum, which was one of the most enjoyable holidays I have ever experienced and I have to say that Ahmed Samir ( for Kuoni) is quite simply an excellent tour guide. With his vast amount of knowledge and sense of humour, he made our holiday an experience never to be forgotten. Following our time on the ship we spent another day at the Sheraton before flying from Luxor to Cairo and then from Cairo to London. At all venues we were met and escorted through to check in, which made it all so easy and relaxing for us. Once again, thanks to your professional staff for making our holiday such a fantastic one. Sonia and Ady Farrow Please forgive my delay in writing to you to tell you what a fabulous trip we all had. You may have heard from the other "Queen's" by now...... I was in the Tour Operating Business for 30 years in a Management capacity for a long time (until a few years ago) and have planned and escorted many trips along with marketing and selling to Travel Agents. Therefore, as a professional, not just a traveler, I wanted to tell you how perfect everything was. Your Escorts, and Guides and Drivers were all very professional and accommodating and I am sure went way overboard for us to be sure we felt welcomed and comfortable. Additionally, the service they performed ie. checking us into the Hotels and airports was over the top. I have to say though, that the best part was the itinerary itself. It was a perfect combination of everything, planned very well. Best regards, Melinda Sprague Bye for now, Linda Hi Kamel,Now that we are back in Wales and fully recovered from our journeyhome, I thought I would let you know how much we enjoyed our time inCairo and El Sokhna. We knew straight away that the service was goingto be good when we first met you and within no time we were on our wayto the Mena House. Throughout our stay in Egypt it was reassuring toknow that you were always on hand and there to provide that extraservice that lifts a holiday from enjoyable to truly memorable.Thank you once again for the professionalism and courtesy you showedus during our holiday, you are a credit to Traveline an we wish youevery success in your future endeavours.Kindest regards,Paul & Sarah DuriggP.S. We wish you the best of good fortune for your wedding next year.I have just got back from a niole cruise on the MS Darakum... FABULOUS!!! In every way, it was wonderful. Staff were attentive and helpful without being obvious, the food was superb and catered for every taste, the trips were well organised and very interesting and the Egyptologist was wonderful. the boat was fully air-conditioned and spotlessly clean. No complaints at all. Go for it... have a wonderful time. Sharon. West Mids Back from Cairo this afternoon after a really wonderful visit. Mr Traveline looked after us with great care. When we arrived at midnight their representative was waiting, but poor thing a jumbo load of Hajj pilgrims has also arrived from Saudi with pots and pans and you can just imagine the Zoo!! He fought to get us through and then off to The Sheraton with ease. Our day in Islamic Cairo was wonderful and I want to particularly bring to your attention the guide for the day. I have travelled far and wide and I can tell you he was excellent. Articulate, polite, charming, perfect English and very knowledgeable. He told me when he was advised he had to look after AWT clients he rushed to brush up on all his knowledge. I thought that was a super pat on the back for you. His name is Walid Ali El Nawasany.I know you are going to Egypt soon and certainly he would be very suitable for your other clients. The ride back to the airport this morning went without a hitch. Thank you for all you have contributed to a special visit. regards, Neil. Hi I have just returned from a Nile cruise on MS Darakum.The trip far exceeded our expectations. The boat is very modern and spotless. The staff are very friendly and fun.Cabins large with great windows with views of the Nile.Only 29 people on board so like a private yacht!Met great people onboard and there was a great family atmosphere with guests and staff mixing together.Food was very good; good choice and would cook anything extra if asked. Booked with Oli at Dialaflight and travel was with kuoni who were great.Anwar the guide was amazing. Only 11 people in tour group. Traveline did all pick ups etc and were very professional.A truly great trip. ps. also cakes were made for birthdays and staff did a dance to celebrate.Must add that all done very tastefully! Just returned from a cruise on MS Sunray. we were extremely delighted, the staff just couldn't do enough. We were a party of four, all vegetarians but found the chef and catering staff very obliging and prepared different asian vegetarian meals on top of the choice we had from the buffet. Would highly recommend the ship. Hi there, We have just returned from a week's cruise down the Nile on the SS Misr. I'm going to start with the positive points. The boat itself is a lovely vessel to be aboard for a week - it has all the facilities you would expect to find on a boat of this size which accommodates 46 people maximum. The staff are VERY attentive, especially the waiting staff in the dining room. For instance, on buffet sittings once you have filled your plate, the waiters insist on taking your plate from you and carrying it back to your table. A bit over the top, but they really do mean well, and people did love the top service. Our guide for the tours, Mohamed, was absolutely faultless and as an Egyptologist was so knowledgeable about all the places we visited. He brought all the temples and tombs to life, and by the end of the week, we felt as though we'd learnt a lot about ancient history in the Nile Valley area. He will be there "imshallah" for many years to come. We had a nice cabin (405) on the top deck, which was smallish, but very well furnished in a period style, with stylish fittings. The bath was small but the shower was excellent. Towels were replaced twice a day and bedlinen was replaced daily. There was a nice but narrow balcony outside with two small stools to sit on (with a gin and tonic and a ciggie in hand), and a nice Nile view. As has been said in previous reviews, you need to request a Nile view cabin at the time of booking, otherwise you end up with your cabin looking out on another boat which it will be moored against some of the time, thus making your balcony unusable. Now the negatives. On our first evening we looked at the bar tariff - if you want a gin and tonic it will cost you 74 Egyptian Pounds (60 for a gin and 14 for a tonic), which in English pounds at the moment is £10. Also a regular size bottle of Stella will set you back £4.25, and a bottle of Egyptian ordinary wine will cost you £30 approx. Champagne worked out into the £100s. A lot of our fellow guests who'd paid a lot of money for this cruise were flabbergasted at these extortionate prices, and the real shame is that most people who'd wisely bought duty free at Gatwick went back to their cabins after dinner to have a couple of drinks, instead of which if the prices had been reasonable, we'd all have been socialising in the beautiful bar/lounge area they have for you to enjoy. Obviously if you're not a drinker then it's not going to affect you, but I saw no comments to this effect before I went so think it might be useful to others to know this before they travel. Also there was no tea or coffee offered after dinner, and you have to pay for water on board, £1.75 a bottle. If you buy it off the ship it's 20p. The food we would describe as fairly good, but do not expect fine dining western style, for example their description of fillet beef could only be described as braised beef. Other dishes were good though, lots of chicken and fish dishes, a variation on a theme. We always found something nice to eat every mealtime. Nice omelettes cooked for breakfast while you wait. Also to mention that the two single cabins on board are tiny to the point of being miniscule. You don't even get a wardrobe because there's not enough headroom for one - you get a kind of "tallboy" cupboard, and that meant that clothes got squashed up because it wasn't long or deep enough to adequately house jackets or trousers. Overall a lovely relaxing week, I would advise anyone to go if you are into the history of Egypt, but remember there are lots of early (4-5am) starts for some of the trips to the temples. Dear Sirs, We have just returned today from a two week "stay and cruise" trip to Egypt arranged through Timelinx. All aspects of the trip, from the initial arrangements through all the internal transfers, to the guides and company representatives, were virtually flawless, and both companies can take credit and praise for helping make our holiday so memorable. You may well be aware that there was a problem with our plane just prior to departure from Egypt and we had to stay over for an additional night while alternative arrangements were made. Even though we had already said "goodbye" to the Traveline representative, Waleed, and over three hours had gone by before the decision to disembark was made, we were very surprised to see Waleed return and take very positive steps to cater for "his" group. I can only guess at the efforts needed to find accommodation for us at such short notice, and to find ourselves at the very luxurious Sonesta St. George was even more impressive. Even though we'd arrived quite late, about 23:30 I think, there was a fine meal laid on for us, and again lunch the following day. Waleed worked very hard to keep us informed during what could have been a very stressful time, and is to be commended for his professional attitude and keen desire to see that his Traveline group is given the best treatment. Yours Sincerely, Sheila and Arthur Bufton We have just come back from a fabulous holiday in Egypt, 1 week on the Darakum and a week at the Marriott in Hurghada. The Darakum is lovely, we were on the 3rd deck and had a great view (superior rooms are on the higher decks) the cabins aren't massive but they are really nice and have a compact but quite contempory bathroom. The food is very good with plenty to choose from and plenty of it (the soups are really tasty) something for everyone, we would always look forward to our meals as the staff (waiters, chefs etc) are such good fun. Always a cake when it was someones birthday. Lots of fun on the Egyptian night. I'm not one for dressing up but we all joined in and had a really good night. We went with Kuoni, our Egyptian guide was Youseff and he was brilliant, he made our trips so much fun and was full of interesting info, we all spoke so highly of him. We had a full itinery but to be honest you do get a bit templed out. We flew down to Abu Simbel, this is a magnificent temple but the weather was so hot we just wanted to get in the shade, well worth the trip though. Afternoon tea is served around 4pm and was all in with the price. You have to be quick with the sun beds (those with shade) not enough shade really for when the weather is too hot to sit out but the small pool is great to cool off in. Do go to the night market in Aswan, it is quite safe and good fun, one man said "I don't know what you want but I've got it in my shop" just say no and smile if you don't want to buy anything. We took lots of 50ps to tip and left a good tip at the end of our cruise in the envelopes provided at reception. We settled our bill with our credit card, this was no problem but I will say that the drinks are on the expensive side so be prepared for this. We just took Egyptian pounds for everything else. We have just returned from probably the best holiday we have ever had. I would say that the boat is decorated in neo-egyptian style which involves a lot of glass, mirrors and stainless steel. A lot of the other boats are more classically decorated with more "Agatha Christie" styling - I would say that they all are beautiful, just different to each other. The staff were friendly and helpful and just knew how to provide good service. The boat was impeccably keen with our rooms being serviced twice a day. Food is great. They dont offer ice as a norm and the coke, beer etc is from cans and bottles (£3.20 for beer, £1.20 for coke) The sights are breathtaking Anyone who is travelling with Kuoni, Trade Winds or Virgin are looked after by TravelLine Reps who are incredible. If they say they will collect you at 5.05am then that is the time they will be there. They look after you in a way we are not used to - Ahmed met us around midnight at Cairo to get us on a connecting flight that left in less than one hour due to a delay at LHR, he had got us our visas in preparation and pushed our baggage whilst we ran behind him, bundling us into the right building. He was amazing. Down points - none that are important. The street vendors are a pain, you have to just act like you can't see them and they go away eventually. Tipping is a nuisance - but you just do it and get used to it. It is HOT in August but there are no queues!! By 9am it is too hot to be outdoors in comfort. There are a lot of early starts but this is ok because you are back to the boat early and can sleep if you want and at least you avoid the heat of the day. Oh and be warned - the salt is in the pepper pot and vice versa on the tables in the restaurant on board! I took half Egyptian pounds and half dollars - I didnt use the dollars at all. And if you know someone that has already done a Nile Cruise and has a galebeya they can lend you - you could borrow it for the galebeya night and save yourself a bit of cash! Oh and someone asked about the laundry service on board. I had a pair of shorts washed and ironed - returned same day and cost the princely sum of 35p!! We have just come back from 7 days on the Darakum and here are my thoughts. I thought the boat, service and guide in general were excellent. I was not aware of any "teething problems" and whilst the decor may not be to everyone's taste, we sure some much worse examples on the Nile! Now some specifics. We did not discover what a superior room entailed. I would guess it typically means "on a higher deck", but how busy the boat is and other logistics, seems to be just as important for cabin allocation. We were on deck 2-and had no complaints, though I think deck 1 might be a little too low. Most rooms are on decks 2 and 3 with a few on 1 and 4. It is worth knowing that there are twin and double cabins. As for drinks, bear in mind that this is a Muslim country and therefore are taxed to hell. Local beer is around £2.50 a bottle (which is OK) but wine is a crippling £15 a bottle. That said there is little else to spend your money on the boat. To clarify no cash changes hand until the end (except in the shop). Also be aware that not all the people on the boat are likely to be from the same country and some may be half way through their cruise when you start (ie they are going Aswan to Aswan rather than Luxor to Luxor). Hi all, Just come back from a week on the Darakum. The ship was not full so cannot comment on how crowded it may be when fully loaded. However, it was a FANTASTIC holiday. The ship is well decorated, the food is first class and ALL the staff friendly. Drinks are reasonably priced - our Luxor hotel was more expensive. I would avoid rooms 210 and 211 as they have the ladders covering the lower 50cm of their windows (we moved here for one day after our bathroom started to leek). Of all the boats we saw along the Nile the Darakum was certainly one of the best - if not THE best. Our independant guide agreed it was the best he had seen. Would go again in a heartbeat! We are very fussy but we loved it. We have recently returned from a fantastic week on the brand new Nile cruiser MS Darakum maiden voyage. The boat is very modern, contemporary egyptian in design. Lots of glass, chrome and mirrors. Exceptionally clean. The staff were brilliant and did everything to give us a pleasant cruise. Rooms are of a reasonable size, with a lovely bathroom and they are cleaned and towels changed twice a day. The food was excellent with a buffet breakfast and lunch and set dinner, usually 3 or 4 course, and the deserts were to die for. There is a small indoor gym with treadmill weights and a bike, overseen by Amir who gave a very relaxing massage. Our Egyptologist was very knowledgable and we visited several fantastic temples as well as tombs in the Valleys of the Kings and Queens. The culture of Egypt is one of tipping, drivers, guides etc, but it is very difficult to get small denominations of Egyptian pounds so take a supply of 50p and £1 coins as most people will accept these. We cruised on the nile on the ss Misr in the last week in March 2008. There is a lot of space on the boat, inside and out. The pool is only really a plunge pool. There is only two rooms with outside seating (front panoramic suites), the balconies do not have the space for a chair but then most of the other boats do not have any balconies. The boat and the crew are excellent. Nothing is too much trouble.Extremely clean, great food and a incredibly attentive crew. This boat is far superior to the Hamees, the other Voyage Jules Verne boat and is certainly worth the upgrade, even walking through (which you do when docked). Just got back from a cruise on the SS Misr. Absolutely excellent in every respect; there were just 40 passengers. Outnumbered by incredibly efficient and pleasant crew. It may be a more expensive vessel to travel on but it has got to be the best in the business. The boat is bookable through Voyages Jules Verne only. A tip; if you want the very best views from the Misr, specify a cabin on the starboard side when you book-you will be facing out into the river when moored. Port side is acceptable as you don't spend much time in your cabin but you will be moored up against other and larger boats on occasions, and you could end up feeling a bit like a troglodyte. Also, if you want a double bed, specify this when you book, as about half the cabins have twin beds. I know its a bit late but we have just returned from our trip down the Nile on SS Misr booked through VJV. Wow! what a fantastic steam ship. It was truly first class and we were thoroughly overwhelmed by the ship, the crew, the food, the guides and the whole itinerary. There were over 60 staff for 45 guests and we were royally treated, nothing was too much trouble. If you are looking to 'do' the Nile in style SS Misr is the only way to go. Absolutely fabulous! Birder on the Nile Against a backdrop of antiquities, the desert, the Red Sea & Africa’s greatest river, Egypt is one of the wonders of the birding world. Dominic Mitcell reports. Amid the noise and bustle of early morning in one of the world’s largest cities, I awoke to watch the sun rise over its mighty river. Against a backdrop of minarets and the Cairo skyline, with the call to prayer as the soundtrack, parties of Cattle Egrets made their way back and forth across surging water that would have started its long journey as a cloudburst far to the south in tropical Africa. From the ground or from the air, the Nile is an impressive sight to behold. The first time I saw the river, many years previously, it was from more than 30,000 ft up, on a flight to Luxor. Having crossed high over an azure Mediterranean Sea and seemingly endless miles of golden dunes and desert, we had eventually descended towards the long, thin ribbon of blue, edged either side with verdant green, that is the Nile Valley. From the air it’s easy to appreciate the importance of this life giving river in a country which is more than 90 per cent desert. On this latest trip, though, our arrival after dark the previous evening had offered a different take on Egypt’s landmarks, with the looming shapes of the Giza pyramids easily discernible on the edge of Cairo’s illuminated nightscape. Nile high From the delta to Upper Egypt, the importance of the Nile to the country’s birds cannot be underestimated. In the north, where our own journey started, the countless channels, ditches and marshes that the river feeds have created an extensive mosaic of wetland and farmland rich in exciting species. In the vast delta region you need to know where to look, but with somewhere approaching 30 trips to the country already under his belt, this was not an issue for Andrew Grieve, leader of the forthcoming Birdwatch reader holiday and my traveling companion in the country. Delta birding was particularly memorable at Abassa, where the fish ponds and marshes were teeming with extraordinary numbers of birds. Cattle Egrets were omnipresent, sometimes in their thousands, while one particularly productive marsh produced dozens each of Squacco and Night Herons and a trio of kingfisher species – a rare hat-trick in the Western Palearctic. The impressive White-breasted Kingfisher, an Asian speciality here at its westerly limit, was both the most numerous and the most noisy, but hovering black-and-white Pieds were a frequent sight too; the so-called ‘Common’ Kingfisher was the rarest. In such habitats waders are also abundant, with Spur-winged Lapwing, Wood and Marsh Sandpipers, Ruff and Little Stint the most numerous. Careful scanning of the rank vegetation produced small numbers of Common Snipe, but it took a while longer to find one of the country’s most wanted waders, Greater Painted-snipe. Eventually we located a single bird, although as I discovered the hard way on this trip they are much easier to flush than to watch on the ground! While waterbirds dominated, there were other distractions. Raptors find no shortage of prey here, and as well as the ubiquitous Yellow-billed Kites (now widely split from Black Kite) and Marsh Harriers, we enjoyed views of Black-winged Kite, Montagu’s Harrier, Steppe Buzzard and a brief Barbary Falcon. Out in the damp fields the commonest passerine was often Red-throated Pipit, flocks of which constantly picked their way along furrows and through rank grass, and an interesting assortment of wagtails included several of the local Eygptian form of Yellow, pygmaea. Stands of reed held Clamorous Reed Warblers and the occasional Bluethroat, while both Streaked Weaver and Red Avadavat are also possible in the delta. We weren’t in luck with the former here, but succeeded with good views of the latter species at the productive oasis of Fayoum, to the southwest of Cairo. Mention should also be made of two other specialities for which Egypt is famous. The delta region is home to the Western Palearctic’s only Senegal Coucals, a skulking species best searched for in spring when it is more vocal and easier to locate. Hopes were not high for our October visit, so it was with great delight that we enjoyed views in the open of this large but unobtrusive bird at Gebel Asfar. We also managed to find the equally sought-after Senegal Thick-knee, a species I hadn’t seen on my previous trip to the country, though the handful we saw in the north would soon be eclipsed by our experiences in Upper Egypt. Great lake It doesn’t take too long to fly from Cairo along the Nile to Abu Simbel, on the shores of Lake Nasser in the extreme south of the country. The position of the lake not far from the border with Sudan explains its long-standing attraction to birders as well as Egyptologists, for whom Upper Egypt holds treasures in abundance. Several Afrotropical species regularly occur here but nowhere else in the Western Palearctic, although seeing them all in one trip is a tall order. Having checked into our hotel and scoured the grounds for migrants, which included several handsome Masked Shrikes as well as the resident White-crowned Wheatears, we headed for the lake shore on the edge of the town to begin the search. It wasn’t long before the first speciality, African Pied Wagtail, gave itself up, and several of these handsome black-and-white birds showed very well as they flitted around the water’s edge. More frustrating were the views out across the water, with a stork on a distant island arousing strong suspicion that it was a Yellow-billed. Unfortunately, in the high temperatures and heat haze, it was just not possible to resolve enough detail on the bird, and we had to resign ourselves to only a ‘probable’ for the trip list. Compensation quickly came in the form of another African speciality, however, when careful scrutiny of the wader flocks on the shore revealed no fewer than 10 Kittlitz’s Plovers. Eventually, with the sun beginning to drop in the late afternoon sky and the temperatures cooling, we decided to try a nearby marsh for Greater Painted-snipe. Pre-roost gatherings of more than 10 each of African Pied Wagtail and Senegal Thick-knee seemed like good omens, as did a Spotted Crake stalking through the edge of the reeds, but the light was rapidly fading. Further searching failed to come up with anything until there was a sudden shout from Andrew, standing on higher ground some yards behind me. “Egyptian Nightjar!” I spun around just as a pallid, falcon-like shape shot past, chasing insects along the edge of the marsh into the twilight. It was a brief but euphoric encounter with a lifer I had not really expected to see on the trip. Our birding appetites sated, that evening we relaxed by enjoying what most visitors come to Abu Simbel to see: the temples of Ramses II and Nefertari. Moved from their original location when the Aswan Dam was built and Lake Nasser flooded, these imposing monuments of ancient Egypt draw tourists in large numbers from around the world. Floodlit after dark, they are also the backdrop for a spectacular ‘sound and light’ show enjoyed by hundreds of visitors each evening. We duly took our seats among the English contingent, put on our headphones and sat back to enjoy the audio commentary as images of the pharaohs were projected across the temples and rock face in front of us. As the audience listened and watched, the occasion was dramatically interrupted when, for the second time in several hours, Andrew exclaimed “Egyptian Nightjar!” at the top of his voice. As startled tourists looked in our direction, I briefly glimpsed the bird’s ghostly silhouette as it hawked moths in the powerful beams of the floodlights. Beyond the valley After Abu Simbel, our route took us back down the Nile to Aswan, where from our base at the magnificent Old Cataract Hotel – where Agatha Christie is said to have written Death on the Nile – we took a superb trip in a small boat exploring the reed fringed backwaters of the river. Here, Striated Heron, Greater Painted-snipe, Little Bittern, Purple Swamp-hen and numerous other waterbirds gave exceptionally close views, unfazed by our presence on the water. We parted company with the great river at Luxor, in the shadow of the Valley of the Kings, and after birding the hotspot of Crocodile Island struck out across the desert towards the Red Sea coast – a long but essential drive if some of the country’s most exciting species are to feature in your plans. Few western visitors travel down the Red Sea coast as far as Wadi Gamel, but the birding rewards are well worth the journey. We found sought after species like Greater Crested Tern, White-eyed and Sooty Gulls and Crab-plover, all high on birding wants lists, and autumn is also a good time for the hard to-find Sooty Falcon – another lifer I was lucky to see several times in the area. This dashing raptor and Lanner Falcon both appeared occasionally around our hotel at Wadi Gamel, no doubt hunting the abundant migrants which take cover in the gardens of this otherwise barren landscape. Every stroll around the grounds brought interesting birds: Red-throated Pipits, Common Redstarts and Willow Warblers were among the more numerous migrants, but others included Short-toed Lark, Sardinian Warbler and Red-breasted Flycatcher. On two occasions we watched a Corncrake feeding in the flower beds at close range, while on another it was an exhausted Namaqua Dove that gave confiding views. From Wadi Gamel, it is possible to reach the edge of the Halaib triangle – the disputed territory in the extreme south-east of the country currently under Egyptian control (see Birdwatch 122: 25-28) – and find Lappet-faced Vulture at just about its only likely location in the Western Palearctic. A number of these impressive scavengers were on the wing when we arrived at the border town of Shelatein, where camel carcasses provide ready meals for this species and Egyptian Vulture, as well as that ubiquitous corvid of the desert, Brown-necked Raven. Shelatein’s other speciality is African Collared Dove, yet another species at the edge of its range here. It was barely more than a week since we had arrived in the country, but this camel-stop in the desert felt a world away from Cairo. Such contrasts are part of the appeal of Egypt as a destination – dramatic and different landscapes, from the lush greenery of the delta and the blue waters of the Nile itself to the barren emptiness of the vast deserts and imposing mountains. Add the antiquities and the avian attractions, as well as the hospitable people and hot climate, and it is a winning formula for a memorable holiday. Acknowledgements References: 1. Collins Guide to the Birds of Britain & Europe with N. Africa & The Middle East. 3. Trip Reports posted on the Web. This report conforms to the following format:- 1. A brief introduction. 2. A table of common species seen along the Nile. 3. A day-by-day account of the sites visited with birding highlights. 4. A selective species trip list. 5. Summary. Introduction This was a family holiday selected by my wife, travelling with Voyages Jules Verne on one of the more “up-market” vessels (The SS MISR – King Farouq’s refurbished steamer), currently sailing on the Nile River. Having previously travelled widely in the Middle East, there was only really one target bird; the Nile Valley Sunbird, with an outside chance of Kittlitz’s Plover. The River cruise produced some good birds in a relaxed atmosphere, unlike the usual rushing around that I achieve whilst abroad. Common Species The following table contains a list of common species that can be easily seen in good numbers from Luxor, South to Aswan along the Nile River. Scientific Name Common Name Phalacrocorax carbo Great Cormorant Ardeola ralloides Squacco Heron Bubulcus ibis Cattle Egret Egretta garzetta Little Egret Ardea cinerea Grey Heron Ardea purpurea Purple Heron Circus aeruginosus Eurasian Marsh Harrier Falco tinnunculus Common Kestrel Gallinula chloropus Moorhen Porphyrio porphyrio madagascariensis Purple Gallinule Fulica atra Coot Himantopus himantopus Black-winged Stilt Vanellus spinosus Spur-winged Plover Larus ridibundus Black-headed Gull Streptopelia senegalensis Laughing Dove Ceryle rudis Pied Kingfisher Upupa epops Hoopoe Hirundo rustica savignii Egyptian Barn Swallow Motacilla alba White Wagtail Corvus (carone) cornix Hooded Crow Passer domesticus House Sparrow Day by Day Itineraries with highlights 19 Mar 07 We flew from Gatwick at 0945, although this was delayed by an hour, which appears to be the normal state of affairs. The flight can hardly be recommended but achieved the desired aim after many queues for a number of reasons. We arrived on board our vessel the MS MISR at about 1930 local time (2 hours in front of UK time), settled in and enjoyed dinner on board. Day 1 – 20 Mar 07 The boat had sailed from Luxor to Esna barrage overnight and in the morning light continued to Edfu. Two Garganeys, several Whiskered Terns and five Purple Gallinules were noted. Further down the Nile, the only Slender-billed Gulls, five Spoonbill and several Glossy Ibis made an appearance. At Edfu – Temple of Horus, two Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and two Brown-necked Ravens were noted amongst the impressive buildings. We re-boarded the boat after some hectic haggling (Life of Brian style), with some zealous vendors and journeyed to Kom Ombo. Whilst on route along the river the only Ruff of the trip, a Night Heron, another Spoonbill and several more Gallinule were noted. The only two Egyptian Geese were also noted on this leg of the journey. Day 2 – 21 Mar 07 Today saw an early morning visit to Kom Ombo. From the boat a small long tailed bird was seen it was surely a Nile Valley Sunbird, although better views were required. We were not disappointed and the gardens under the Temple revealed two pairs of these superb little birds, the males in full breeding regalia. With migration well under way, several Lesser Whitethroats flitted about whilst the local Graceful Prinias and Common Bulbuls were in good voice. A familiar Reed Warbler like song from a bush was soon identified as an Eastern Olivaceous Warbler with its typical tail pumping action. The boat then sailed from Kom Ombo to Aswan with the target bird safely secured on day two, which was a relief. The now familiar riverside birds continued to show and were complemented by several flocks of wildfowl, one of which contained three Ferruginous Ducks. Day 3 – 22 Mar 07 We awoke in Aswan and set out to visit the Temple of Philae. A White-crowned Black Wheatear was seen by the jetty and a cracking male Masked Shrike also showed well. A Little Green Heron was seen on a rocky outcrop and several Gull-billed Terns circled the boat. On the Island, at least another four Nile Valley Sunbirds entertained us, an Osprey put in a brief appearance as did five Red-rumped Swallows and about sixty White Pelicans roosted on a nearby beach. We viewed a thermal full of Black Kites from the temple some of which were of the Yellow-billed sub-species. Later in the afternoon we took a Felucca ride to Kitchener Island which produced another two male Nile Valley Sunbirds, a male Bluethroat (red spot), ten Ferruginous Duck and the usual common migrants. Day 4 – 23 Mar 07 A 0315 wake-up call and an early departure saw us heading for Abu Simbel. Our arrival was greeted with a White-crowned Wheatear, another Hoopoe was seen as was a Graceful Prinia but the only new bird was a very pale grey coloured Crested Lark. After lunch, we set sail north for our return to Luxor. Between Aswan and Kom Ombo the only Senegal Thick Knees were noted, along with two more Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and a White Pelican. Numerous Pied Kingfishers and the Egyptian sub-species of Barn Swallow continued to circle the vessel as we sat in the sun and enjoyed a beer or two. From Kom Ombo to Edfu, a Clamourous Reed Warbler was heard and the only Ringed Plover of the trip was seen. Day 5 – 24 Mar 07 The usual and common birds were seen on this leg of the journey between Esna and Luxor with no new birds for the trip being added. Day 6 – 25 Mar 07 The group briefly stopped at the Colossi of Memnon but not before adding two Black-shouldered Kites on route. These striking birds appear to be present in small numbers around the cultivated fields of Luxor. At the statues three displaying Fan-tailed Warblers were seen, another Masked Shrike and two Stonechat. The Temple of Hatshepsut was next and we added Trumpeter Finch and two Brown-necked Ravens here whilst Pale Crag Martins continued to be present at all Temple sites and several authentic Rock Doves were seen. Later in the Valley of the Kings, at least fifteen Trumpeter Finches came to a bowl of water and some seed which allowed some close photos to be taken (by my wife) of this at times difficult bird to connect with. Whilst departing the site a Little Green Bee-eater perched on a rock. An short afternoon walk by the Traveline moorings produced good views of a Clamourous Reed Warbler and another Night Heron. Of interest during an evening visit to Luxor Temple was a noisy roost of Godfrey’s Tomb Bat. Day 7 – 26 Mar 07 On route to the Temple of Karnak another Black-shouldered Kite sat on telegraph wires and a Hoopoe fed along the roadside. The journey to the airport produced several of the ubiquitous Pied Kingfishers, several Pallid Swifts overhead and one more Black-shouldered Kite, a species that appears to be quite common around the cultivated farmland of Luxor. Selective Species List Scientific Name Common Name Remarks Tachybaptus ruficollis Little Grebe 2 seen on the southerly journey between Esna and Edfu Pelecanus onocrotalus Great White Pelican A flock of circa 60 seen roosting from Philae Temple and later migrating North with 1’s along the river Ixobrychus minutus Little Bittern 1 along the river between Kom Ombo and Aswan Nycticorax nycticorax Black-crowned Night Heron Singletons seen along the river but not numerous Butorides striatus Little Green Heron 3 birds seen 2 on the river between Kom Ombo and Aswan, 1 whilst approaching Philae Temple Egretta alba Great White Egret Only 2 birds seen between Kom Ombo and Aswan on the 21st Plegadis falcinellus Glossy Ibis 1s & 2s along the river with a large flock of c60 between Kom Ombo and Aswan Platalea leucorodia Eurasian Spoonbill 5 birds seen on a river island between Esna and Edfu and 1 seen between Edfu and Kom Ombo Alopochen aegyptiacus Egyptian Goose 2 were seen on a river island between Edfu and Kom Ombo Anas penelope Eurasian Wigeon Small groups seen along the river Anas crecca Eurasian Teal 8 birds seen in 2 groups Anas acuta Northern Pintail 2 drakes at Aswan with Northern Shoveller and 1 with the same species between Edfu and Kom Ombo Anas querquedula Garganey 3 birds seen, 2 drakes and 1 duck along the river with Northern Shoveller Anas clypeata Northern Shoveller Large flocks seen all along the river Aythya nyroca Ferruginous Duck 3 between Esna and Edfu. 10 from Kitchener Island Aythya fuligula Tufted Duck Small parties (mostly drakes) along the river between Edfu and Kom Ombo Elanus caeruleus Black-shouldered Kite 2 near the Colossi of Memnon, 1 over the fields near Luxor and 1 on the way to the airport on the final day Milvus migrans Black Kite Numerous over Philae Temple with singletons seen elsewhere Milvus migrans parasitus African "Yellow-billed" Kite Birds contained within the thermal at Philae were of this Ssp Pandion haliaetus Osprey 1 at Philae Temple Burhinus senegalensis Senegal Thick-knee 11 seen on the return journey between Aswan and Kom Ombo on a “beach” Charadrius hiaticula Ringed Plover 1 seen during the return journey up-river between Aswan and Kom Ombo Philomachus pugnax Ruff A group of 8 were seen on an river island between Edfu and Kom Ombo Gallinago gallinago Common Snipe 1 at Edfu – flushed by a Marsh Harrier and one along the river between Aswan and Kom Ombo Limosa limosa Black-tailed Godwit 2 were seen feeding between Esna and Edfu Tringa totanus Common Redshank 1 seen between Aswan and Kom Ombo Tringa stagnatilis Marsh Sandpiper 1 seen between Aswan and Kom Ombo Actitis hypoleucos Common Sandpiper Singletons seen throughout the trip along the river Larus genei Slender-billed Gull A group of 5 seen between Esna and Edfu Gelochelidon nilotica Gull-billed Tern Common around Philae Temple with 1s along the river Chlidonias hybridus Whiskered Tern Good numbers seen all along the river Chlidonias leucopterus White-winged Black Tern Small numbers mixed with the above and a group of 20 heading North between Esna and Edfu on the 20th Columba livia Rock Dove Authentic birds seen at the Temple of Hatshepsut Streptopelia turtur Turtle Dove 1 bird seen at Philae Temple Apus apus Common Swift Good numbers migrating in the second half of the week Apus pallidus Pallid Swift Probably mixed with the previous species but 5 positively identified on the return to the airport Merops orientalis Little Green Bee-eater 1s & 2s seen at Kom Ombo, Abu Simbel and Valley of the Kings Merops persicus Blue-cheeked Bee-eater A flock of 18 seen between Esna and Kom Ombo, with a pair at Edfu Temple and several around Luxor Galerida cristata Crested Lark 2 seen. 1 at Abu Simbel and 1 at the Colossi of Memnon Ptyonoprone fuligula Pale Rock Martin Seen regularly in small numbers at all Temples Hirundo daurica Red-rumped Swallow A group of 5 seen over Philae Temple Motacilla flava Yellow Wagtail Singletons seen along the river Mortacilla (flava) feldegg Black-headed wagtail 1 seen between Edfu and Kom Ombo Pycnonotus barbatus Common Bulbul Fairly common - 1s & 2s seen in suitable habitat Luscinia svecica Bluethroat 1 male seen on Kitchener Island Saxicola torquata Stonechat A male and female at the Colossi of Memnon Oenanthe leucopyga White-crowned Black Wheatear 2 at Philae Temple, 2 at Abu Simbel and one at the boat jetty to Philae Temple Cisticola juncidis Zitting Cisticola Several seen in grasslands bordering the River Prinia gracilis Graceful Prinia 1s & 2s heard and seen in reeds along the river Acrocephalus stentoreus Clamourous Reed Warbler Heard along the river and 1 seen in reeds near Luxor Hippolais pallida Olivaceous Warbler Migrants seen and heard in suitable habitat Sylvia curruca Lesser Whitethroat Good numbers seen at Philae Temple, Kom Ombo Temple and singletons seen throughout in suitable habitat Anthrepetes metallicus Nile Valley Sunbird At least 8 seen in pairs, including stunning males in suitable habitat at Kom Ombo Temple, Kitchener Island and Philae Temple (nest seen) Lanius nubicus Masked Shrike 3 at Philae Temple and 1 at the Colossi of Memnon Corvus ruficollis Brown-necked Raven 2 at Edfu Temple of Horus and 2 at the Temple of Hatshepsut Bucanetes githagineus Trumpeter Finch 4 at the Temple of Hatshepsut and common in the Valley of the Kings (photographed coming to water) Summary The trip produced the target bird! A Cruise along the River Nile is an ideal relaxed way to bird watch, whilst keeping the family happy and enjoying the Egyptian historical sites. The excursion to Abu Simbel is a little tiring and a little over-priced, with not many birds on offer (unless you are lucky enough to encounter something like an African Skimmer on Lake Nasser, however, to go that far and not visit the site would be a shame. I would recommend a cruise for the above reasons but if you are looking for a large list this is not the trip for you. Take care in selecting a vessel to travel on, as many look tired and not in particularly good order. • The Nile cruise ship was one of the best we saw (M/S Hamees). The guides were fantastic. Contrary to some comments that I have read, we found them to be 100% trustworthy and honest. Trust them. They know the ropes and will take care of you.
M/S SunRay
LolaB
UK
Sep 01, 2005, 2:55 PM
We went first week of Nov 2004. The boat was in very new, clean condition. Good quality furnishings. Food was excellent - we ate everything and didn't pick up any tummy bugs. Service was excellent. I am quite fussy but couldn't fault anything. Thoroughly recommended. Do a search for Sunray (without the space in between) and you'll see my review). We went with Kuoni - highly professional, guides were great.
M/S SunRay
Kerst
Cheshire
Oct 05, 2006, 10:55 AM
Went on MS Sun Ray as part of a 16 day holiday at beginning of September, would recommend this boat to anyone! There were 4 in our party ages ranging from 30's -60's and we all thought it was one of the best experiences ever! On arrival we were taken to the boats private docking place and welcomed on board, despite arriving quite late in the evening the staff served us a full meal. It is apparently one of the newest ships on the Nile and quite contemporary with a marble reception area. I was at first a little disappointed as I felt the room was a little outdated, mainly the bathroom but this impression only inproved during the stay. Compared to the other boats we saw, and there are lots I do not htink it can be beaten. Service was excellent, it was half full when we were there so 2 staff per passenger. All Staff were willing to please and one day when I missed lunch the manager came to check I was OK and not feeling unwell. They will cater to your every dietary requirement and the food was of a very high standard as was hygiene, none of us were ill and ate everything. This was important to us because no bad tummy meant we missed no sightseeing! It was exceptionally clean, room service 3 times a day!! The rooms are of a good size we had upgraded room but I think they were all of a reasonable size and standard! There is nightly entertainment on board including the Egyptian night when you have to dress up! It was a very relaxed atmosphere on board with no strict dress code, smart casual but I don't think anyone felt out of place. I really can not fault this boat or our holiday in general. You can pay with travellors cheques, credit card or cash and it is very reasonable. Tipping staff is at the end guide £1.50- 3.00 pp per day staff and £1.50 pp per day guide. You will need lots of small change as tipping is a way of life and needed daily for drivers, toilets etc.. Take antiseptic hand wash or wipes as money is dirty to avoid tummy bugs! It is v hot even in shade despite not being summer and a hat is advisable. There is no dress code for sightseeing, despite it being a muslim country shorts and vests are acceptable apart from in mosques if you visit any! I would not miss out on extra trips especially Abu Simbel!!!! The light shows are also v good! I never felt threatened and was always treated very respectfully. There are lots of people selling things by the sights but it did not cause me any offense and I felt safe to walk alone! It is excellent, take lots of memory cards you will need them!
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